The Secrets of Neebish Island: Part Two – Islanders

I have always enjoyed meeting people. Islanders in the Great Lakes have become my favorite individuals to get to know! Each of us are born with our personality and grow into it within the guidance of our surroundings. Islanders have the ability to develop to their full potential without societal constraints. They are passionate and dedicated with strong ties to their family history.

Neebish Island houses 63-89 year round residents who hold these traits and were a joy to get to know! Just as other island communities, Neebish holds a strong bond among the people. Without hesitation, each would jump at the opportunity to help their fellow residents. Join me in meeting some amazing people! I thoroughly enjoyed spending time on Neebish Island!

This is the last of nine Coast Guard look-out towers surrounding Neebish Island.

Neebish Island Facebook Groups

Before we left on our journey to Neebish Island, I joined their local Facebook groups. Lori Miller, an islander, reached out to me in a private message welcoming us to the Neebish Island Historical Society, which she is a board member. Her husband, Ed, grew up on the island. In their retirement the couple moved to Neebish in 2013. From what I gathered, Lori was a born leader and has embraced the Neebish culture!

I immediately responded to Lori and requested an interview, if she had time to meet with us. As soon as I messaged our arrival date she replied, “I’ll probably be at the campground having ice cream. I can’t wait to meet you!” The personal correspondence warmed my heart!

The Ferry Workers

The ferry workers often have to make several trips across the channel at their two hour scheduled intervals. (Except from January 15th – April 1st when they run a limited schedule.) In between each slotted time they go home, but there’s no relaxation as the next scheduled trip is less than two hours away. I imagine that the routine would become tedious, yet the workers were cheerful and patient as we loaded and unloaded our Jeep and boat trailer.

Each month this small ferry moves 3,300 people and 2,175 vehicles across the St. Mary’s Seaway.
That’s a LOT to move!
Neebish Island sits east of the upper peninsula in the St. Mary’s Seaway. In the year 2000 only 66 people lived here year round with one church and one store.

Getting Lost (Only For A Moment)

After departing from the ferry we were on our way to the Neebish Island Resort and Campground, when we made a wrong turn. The island is seven miles long and three miles wide. It had surprised us that we had ‘gotten lost’ but only for a few minutes.

When we had made a wrong turn, I furrowed my brow in concern. “How would we turn around?” I wondered.
DaViking quickly unhitched the boat, turned it around, moved the Jeep and re-fastened the vessel.
He’s a speedy problem solver!

Freighter Traffic

As we approached the resort and campground a freighter greeted us! Freighters travel northbound on the east side of Neebish Island and southbound on the west side.

The reason the shipping traffic was split had started when the Houghton (ship) collided with a barge on September 5, 1899 on the east side of the island. The accident clogged the shipping channel for many days. Something needed to be done to navigate the narrow channels around Neebish Island, which means ‘where the water boils.’ In 1903 the west side rapids was reduced by widening and deepening the “rock cut” allowing waterway traffic to flow more smoothly. To avoid another collision in the narrow passages, traffic is diverted to either side of Neebish Island.

Freighters slide by day and night along the St. Mary’s River.

Arriving At The Campground

As promised, Lori met us as we drove in. “Welcome to Neebish Island!” She walked over to our Jeep. “I’d like to take you on a tour tomorrow. What time works for you?” Lori bubbled with energy. It felt like we were coming home, but to a place that was entirely new.

Lori Miller, a dedicated islander and board member of the Historical Society, greeted us warmly and brought us on a personal tour of the Neebish Island the following day.

Connie, The Camp Owner

Lori introduced us to Connie. It was clear that Lori and Connie, the camp owner, had a special kinship as they shared a smile.

Connie looked up from her task and casually stated, “You can pick any site and make ourselves at home.”

Connie’s pug, Charlie, never left her side.
Connie single handedly operates the resort, campground and the only store on the island..

Connie has left a lasting impression on my heart! Her dedication to the campground and the islanders is one of complete servitude. Her tasks of caring for the cozy cabins and pristine campsites were often interrupted to scoop ice cream for waiting customers at the store.

These cabins are rented to families who make an annual trip as well as to newcomers.
Connie organizes the schedule and cares for those at the Neebish Island Resort.

The Only Store on Neebish Island

Connie’s generosity repeatedly shined as she served guests and islanders alike at her store and the Neebish Island Resort.

Yes! The campground store has ice cream! Islanders make regular trips to the Neebish Island Resort for a treat.
In the evening I noticed a note, written on scrap paper, was taped to the door, “Be back soon.”
Two dollars were tucked into the screen door from a customer who had purchased a bag of ice.

That evening a man barreled into the camp in a bright red Jeep. “I’m looking for a salad.” he explained. “They directed me here.” Connie squeezed her lips to the side, “Just a minute.” She went into her own home. When she returned she carried a head of lettuce and two tomatoes. “Here you go. This is what I’ve got.” She shrugged. He broke into a boyish grin. “Thanks!”

Then the gentleman eyed the freezer case with ice cream. “May I have some. . . mint chocolate chip and Neebish Island fudge?” Connie packed scoops into to-go containers. He left a hefty tip on the counter. It made me smile to see him appreciate Connie.

The Lemonade Stand

The following day a lemonade stand appeared nearby our camp. Connie’s grandkids had come to visit. I appreciated how she allowed the duo to create their own business. We deposited funds into the securely taped down “Coca Cola” cup as Chuck commented, “I guess they’re on break.” He nodded toward the sand hill where the kids were playing.

The Lemonade Stand
Later Connie smirked, “I wondered how people would like the sour lemon-juice-ade. It probably wasn’t sweet.”

,Around dinner time, back at the stand, the youngsters were commenting on the money left in their chauffer. “It’s five dollars. How do we split it up?” they pondered as the pair packed up their table and items on their grandma’s golf cart. They drove the cart a short distance near Connie’s back porch where the adults had congregated for conversation. “We’re cold.” They announced. “We’re going by the fire. We’ll put the stuff away tomorrow.” With arms flapping toward the geese, the kids ran off. Connie simply chuckled to herself, shaking her head with a grin.

Connie’s grandkids left their “lemonade stand” items on the golf cart. She lovingly smiled.

After Connie’s husband passed, she and her two boys bought the campground. I believe her passion and love shine through as an honor to her husband. More recently, tragedy struck when one of her sons suddenly died of heart failure.

I can’t begin to image the size of her grief, yet she continues to serve others. Connie has made a lasting impact on me and I will continue to think of her often as a model of how to live life.

Breakfast

DaViking is an early riser and enjoys cooking at camp. (What a BONUS for ME!) Each time he was preparing food, a visitor from a neighboring camper appeared. Bear was very polite and waited patiently for something to drop, which would happen frequently.

Bear is a professional beggar!

Just as we sat down to eat our oatmeal and eggs, another ship whispered northward.

Our Tour of Neebish Island with Lori Miller

Lori Miller arrived promptly at 10:00 am to take us on a tour. She graciously offered to drive as she knew her way around. We hopped into her orange Jeep. Lori had a gift bag and a plot map for us.

The gift bag contained a Christmas Ornament of the Neebish Ferry in December as well as a postcard.
This was a perfect remembrance of our trip! Thank you!

Lori had marked all the important sites we’d see on our tour. What an amazing guide! She went above and beyond my expectation for an interview. Soon we were chatting like old friends.

Lori’s map was FULL of information about Neebish Island!

“Little Neebish was settled first.” Lori started the tour before we left the campground. She was a sage of all things Neebish! “There were 150 men running a sawmill there.” “There’s still a little rivalry between Little Neebish and Neebish islanders.” She added with a grin and a shake of her head.

Later, a Coast Guard ship housed engineers and workers when they were building the rock cut and the Soo Locks.

Little Neebish’s Pioneer’s Association Meeting House

The devoted members of the Little Neebish Pioneer Association work to keep history alive with meetings and planning activities. Soon there will be a historical coloring book available.

Neebish History – The Short Version

Farming had been a way of life for decades on the island. In 2019 the last of the cattle were removed after 100 years of farming. There used to be two year round stores, four schools and two churches. Now there’s only Connie’s store at the campground, no schools are left and only one church.

Communication

This is one of two places on Neebish where one can get cell service.” Lori parked near the shore.

“This is where I come to call the power company if we’ve lost electricity. Otherwise, we don’t usually get a signal inland.” Lori explained. Some islanders still live off the grid. They don’t have electricity or indoor plumbing. However, for those who do use internet and cellular service, there are two spots on the island where one can be sure to receive signal.

In fact, later in our escapade, Lori spotted a car parked and a man in it. She needed to investigate to ensure he was alright. As we drove up closer she recognized him and introduced us. The gentleman was on the phone with his wife who was on the mainland camping. “I can get signal here, so I’m talking to my wife.” He smiled relieving our worries.

The U.S. Postal Service serves the Neebish Island community well.

We met a local man on the trail while walking. He introduced himself with a nod, “Bauman. I got the blue mailbox.” I gathered that island life was a lot less complicated.

Anne and Steve Earle

Next, Lori drove us into a driveway leading to a log cabin right along the shipping channel. We wouldn’t have had the opportunity to meet so many locals if it hadn’t been for Lori’s outgoing thoughtfulness and time!

A man was fixing hinges on the door. He looked up and smiled. Lori called to him, “Steve, is Anne home?” Steve called to his wife who had to come through another door and walk around the house. Anne sat right down and started in on their family histories.

Steve’s grandmother, Maude, was an original white settler on this property. Anne described the original house and the additions that had been made. His grandmother’s story is one of independence and strength.

Anne (and Steve) Earle often receive “salutes” from passing ships. (sounding their horn)

“Twenty-five years ago a passing freighter saw lightning strike and start a fire on the island.” Anne’s eyes widened. “You could hear sap boiling in the trees.” Fire continues to be a vested threat on the island. With a troop of volunteer firefighters and two fire trucks, residents continue to be diligent in their fire prevention and awareness of possible hazards.

School

At one time, Neebish Island had four schools. There was a school for Native Americans, the Coast Guard education center, another one (Lori wasn’t sure of the name) and the little stone school.

This is a painting of the Little Stone School that Lori had at her home.

Ed, Lori’s husband, had reminisced how the teacher had to be the bus driver, too. He picked up students in a VW van and then returned them home each day.

When the stone structure became unsafe in 1964, a new school was built. Now this building serves as a community center. In the past they have held Halloween and Christmas celebrations until 2006 when the gatherings ended. Now Ed, his sisters, Lori and others have worked to bring the magic back to the residents by organizing parties. (With the exception of last year 2019 due to the Covid virus.)

The community center had disc golf, a swing set, picnic tables and a basketball court.
They were renovating the inside so we couldn’t tour the building.

There’s no longer a school on the island. The four school-aged children are either home schooled or attend a public school on the mainland.

The Church

Neebish Island Presbyterian Church will celebrate its 95th birthday next year. “All are welcome!! Friends from many denominations gather weekly throughout the summer to thank God for our many blessings and support each other.” This quote is from May 20, 2017 on the Neebish Island Leaflet. (Facebook page)

Emily Butterfield, the first female architect from the University of Michigan, designed this church.
It was completed in 1929.

Islander, Diane Laitinen, has organized visiting ministers. They come from a variety of denominations and lead services each week during the pleasant-weather months.

The church bell is rung at the start of Sunday services and it operates as the island’s “emergency signal.” It’s sound can be heard for miles.

Sid’s Corner

Sid Parr was a very well known and respected islander. He ran the Neebish Island dump and was involved in keeping the island beautiful. One man remembered Sid fondly. “When I was 6 or 7 he helped build our dock on Little Neebish Island.”

On the Sherriff’s monthly visit, he would stop by and ask Sid, “Who’s behaving? Who’s not?” Sid always had a straight answer for the law enforcement deputy.

This is known as Sid’s Corner. It’s a main intersection on the island. His house is highlight in the background.

Sid was a gifted musician. He would often play his guitar and sing at this corner. Spontaneous sing-a-longs would pop up often. He’d readily invite anyone to his corner for a good song or a story. One time he nodded to the Sherriff to join them. “I can’t right now, I’m on duty.” was the deputy’s reply.

“Sid’s Corner” is inscribed on the stone monument.
It’s a memorial to honor Sid and U.S. Veterans. (Facebook: April 29, 2021)
.

Later, the Sherriff’s car parked alongside the road. The crowd stood tall becoming acutely aware of his presence. The deputy got out. He opened his trunk. He carefully placed his gun inside and locked it securely. “I’m off duty now.” He smiled and joined the circle of islanders gathered at Sid’s Corner.

Lori and Ed’s Home

Lori brought us to her home to share more island treasures, stories and historical photos.

Ed and Lori’s Home
Photo Credit: John Rice

Lori told us about John Rice, a ship hand, who often takes photos of islanders waving to him. Then he posts them on Neebish Island Leaflet’s Facebook page.

The Catholic Graveyard

Next to Ed and Lori’s home is the Catholic cemetery, which they lovingly care for. Some of the grave markers include Native American Spirit Houses with relics hung from the wooden crosses.

These graves hold an elegance of peace.

Islanders’ Giving Spirit

Lori delivers hand made quilts, which have been signed by the women who have made them. These are given to islanders who are in “need of a hug.”
She also distributes welcome baskets to new residents. She’s given out 14 in the last 18 months.

My heart has been filled with the love these Neebish Islanders have shown to us. Their ability to reach out and care for each other has built a solid foundation of community. As time slides onward and new people move to the island, it will be fascinating to see the population transform. I imagine the new members will absorb the island culture of dedication to one another and fully developed personalities.

Related Links:

Did you know about Pine River Canoe Camp on Neebish Island? It’s another secret on this island!

Restless Viking merchandise is now available!

Resources:

The Neebish Island Resort 11550 16 1/2 Mile Rd, Barbeau, MI 49710 Phone(906) 632-2067

https://glialliance.org/neebish-island/

 

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