Rock Island is known as “Wisconsin’s Best Kept Secret” and “The Jewel of Arts and Nature.” Located in Lake Michigan, north of the Door Peninsula, DaViking (my husband, Chuck) and I decided to travel on three ferries so we could learn about this mysterious, rustic state park. In true fashion, we needed the “behind the curtain” tale of this 974 acre wilderness isle and the Icelandic inventor, Chester Hjortur Thordarson who had once built an Icelandic compound and retreat here. Join us on our caper to Rock Island!

As we approached Rock Island on an open-topped ferry, the cleverly assembled boathouse came into view. Chuck rattled history into my ear as I marveled at this monolith. “The top part is a Viking Meeting Hall and in the balcony Chester Thordarson kept all his books. He had 11,000 rare books.”

Chester Hjortur Thordarson — born Hjörtur Þórðarson

At six years old the Thordarson family immigrated from Iceland to Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Sadly, a few months after their arrival, their father died. The name “Hjortur” (shock tu) was difficult for his American teacher to pronounce, so she gave him the name, “Chester.” This name stayed with him even though he left school after second grade.

The Thordarson family moved around often until 1881 when the family purchased a farm in Red River Valley, North Dakota. Without extra money, it was decided that only the women and young children would ride a train across the thousand miles to their new home. Chester, at 13 years old, was expected to walk, barefoot. It took him two and a half months to march these miles.

At 18 years old, in 1886, Chester Hjortur joined his sisters who were living in Chicago. Knowing that education was important, he enrolled into 4th grade. Yes, at 18 years old! He completed 7th grade by the age of 20 and started looking for a job.

Chester was hired by an electrical manufacturing company. He was paid $4.00 each week as an electrical manufacturer. He spent $3.00 for room and board. The remaining dollar he used to buy science and nature books as his passion for learning continued into his adult years.

Thordarson Electric Manufacturing, Chicago

In 1894 with $75.00 in his pocket, C.H. Thordarson (the name he was using) started his own electric manufacturing business. He married a fellow Icelander, Juliana Fridricksdottir, whose family lived on Washington Island. (North of the Door Peninsula- See the map below.)

C.H. Thordarson invented nearly one hundred electrical patents: inductors, transformers and high voltage coils. These inventions set the foundation for our country’s electrical grid and transmission infrastructure.

Purchasing Rock Island 1910

C.H. Thordarson held an admiration for nature and wanted a place where he could study, read and discuss the big ideas of the century. With Rock Island’s fishing industry no long viable, the island population had lessened. This made the land available for private purchase. He bought 800 acres of Rock Island.

The Boathouse, Viking Hall and Library

C.H. Thordarson hired fellow Icelanders, many had lived just south on Washington Island, to construct a Viking Hall with a boathouse foundation. A loft was planned to hold his growing book collection.

This building was designed to honor Alþingi, the Icelandic Parliament building. (pictured below, right)

The Boathouse

As Chuck and I strolled down the sloped walkway, along the stone wall, mustiness gathered in my nose. We turned and entered the archway to the boathouse. As my eyes adjusted to the darkness I focused on the sound of lapping water kissing the sides of the boats in the slips. It gave me a peaceful feeling.

As we talked our voices rang with an echo in the cavern-ness boathouse. I felt comfortable in the damp space. The stone walls and musty smell reminded me of St. Mary’s Roman Catholic gym in Lake Leelanau, Michigan. It was next door to my mother’s childhood home. Many memories have been linked to the structure. I’d climbed the stone walls and played inside the gym. In the basement relatives had cooked chicken and made stuffing for the annual chicken dinner every August. Boy, my mind drifts easily over decades.

The Viking Hall

Next, we headed back up the ramp and into the Viking Hall. I wasn’t prepared for the century-old beauty of the stacked stone walls and hefty wooden beams with sunlight pouring in through the arched windows.

The room was filled with carved furniture. I wove my way through admiring the Icelandic sagas etched into the wooden pieces. There were so many stories depicted! Chuck explained that these tables and chairs had been sold and then years later bought back to complete the restoration of the property.

Then, I turned around. The fireplace was magnificent!

There were games set out on the tables and wonderfully displayed pictures and artifacts. C.H. Thordarson even had honorary degrees hung on the wall!

The Loft

The wooden stairs creaked under our feet as we mounted the steps. The loft had once housed C.H. Thordarson’s 11,000 volume collection of rare books. Most were about the natural sciences including botany and ornithology. The books are now part of the University of Wisconsin – Madison’s rare book assembly.

The view from the loft overlooking The Viking Hall was stunning!

DNR Officer Randy Holm said, “Edison and Henry Ford were known to have come here to Rock Island. Chicago’s Mayor Thompson had his own cabin, built by C.H. Thordarson, as a retreat. ” Another guide mumbled that mafia leaders had also gathered here, however, I couldn’t find any evidence of that . . .

The Pagoda

C.H. Thordarson was heavily influenced by Japanese gardens. He brought many new plant species to the island, dug out ponds and had a pagoda constructed. It was used for gatherings, often at meal times.

Following the bombing of Pearl Harbor, C.H. Thordarson had the Japanese gardens removed from his property. He had no longer felt a kinship to the Asian nation. The Pagoda remained as it had been a functional area to meet.

Stone Carvings

In the hall there had been a reference to some stone carvings along a cliff-type wall along the shore. So, we took a hike to investigate. At first they weren’t apparent, but with careful inspection, we located several.

Yes! We got our feet wet! This area had once been shoreline, but with higher water levels, it was now a squishy hike. We continued on down the trail to locate Chester’s gravesite.

C.H. Thordarson’s Grave

Through a wooded area along the shoreline, a white fence marked the perimeter to a few graves. The trail to C.H. Thordarson’s grave was matted down among the long grass. Other guests had left trinkets and rocks to honor this man, an inventor who has forever changed our lives with his electrical inventions. He had been interred here after passing away from heart failure in Chicago.

Plans That Never Came To Fruition

C.H. Thordarson had planned to construct a grand house on the island for his spouse. His wife hadn’t eagerly embraced the whole “nature thing” very well. He wanted to keep her happy! C.H. Thordarson also had a model for a 100 room hotel which would have brought many visitors to this haven. Sadly, C.H. Thordarson passed away in 1945 before these plans could be enacted.

The Pottawatomie Lighthouse

Chuck and I sat at a picnic table contemplating the mile hike to get to the Pottawatomie Lighthouse. Built in 1836 and named for the tribe who had once inhabited the island, the Pottawatomie Lighthouse holds the honor of being the oldest Door County lighthouse. Chuck had planned to take in this site.

It was hotter than I’d expected. I’d worn pants since poison ivy is prevalent on the small island. As we cooled off in the shade, Chuck relayed stories of light keepers. All the while I was loosing motivation for our next hike. I ate a snack and drank some water that I’d packed. (There isn’t a store on the island.) I was having a ‘Cinderella at midnight moment.’ Would we make it to the lighthouse?

My attention was drawn to the young mother and two daughters who we’d met earlier when we’d gotten off the ferry. They were at a nearby picnic table eating lunch while waiting for their patriarch to sail around the island. We began chatting with them again. Their story is a fascinating one . . .

The Listing Vessel

When we had initially arrived on the island, we had taken time to hike out to a rocky peninsula where we’d noticed a sailboat listing in the shallow water. DaViking loves to help and is knowledgeable about everything adventurous! As Chuck said, “They’re having a more interesting adventure than us. Let’s check out the listing sailboat!”

There we met two young girls contently tossing rocks and their mom patiently pacing with their fluffy, white dog. The family had been sailing the previous night, using navigation charts which had claimed 18 feet of water, but alas it wasn’t. Their sailboat’s keel became stuck. The family had spent the night in an emergency shelter on the Rock Island while they waited for the tow boat. (Before their departure from Chicago, the couple had paid to have a tow service ready, just in case, but these companies work at their own pace.) The tow boat was due that afternoon.

After being towed the father sailed around the island, inspecting the vessel along the way, as well as when he arrived in port to pick up his family. The young ladies were well versed in tying the lines to the cleat on shore. We bid them safe travels and happy adventures. I admired their carefree lifestyle, the confident youngsters and the mother’s patience. We enjoyed meeting this family!

Well, you guessed it. We didn’t hike to the lighthouse. After our conversations and curiosities, we boarded the next ferry and headed back to Washington Island.

The Ferry

With soggy feet we hiked down to the ferry dock. It was about time for the next ferry service. I was looking forward to changing into dry shoes which I had in the Jeep. We agreed that it would be good to set up camp back on Washington Island. (Boy, our energy disappears more quickly these days!)

Rock Island State Park

In 1964 the State of Wisconsin purchased the land. Most of the buildings were in disrepair, so they were torn down. A rustic campground was created under the shade of cedar trees. There’s a water spigot and outhouse for visitors and campers. Wagons and wheelbarrows are available to haul gear to one’s campsite. There are no cars or bicycles permitted. Yup. It’s definitely rustic and charming!  

Taking a peek ‘behind the curtain’ to learn about C.H. Thordarson left an impression. I am inspired to soak in nature, continue to be curious and appreciate people’s talents from long ago and today.

Related Links:

Join us on our caper with Chuck’s YouTube video!

Another Icelandic built structure; Stavkirke is nearby on Washington Island.

Restless Viking merchandise is now available!

Resources:

Rock Island State Park Website

PBS Video
Michael R. Anderson’s site

Door County Pulse article

Door County Pulse article

Only In Your State article