“The Queen of the Great Lakes,” The S.S. Milwaukee Clipper, is the oldest passenger ship on our freshwater seas. She is a maritime museum and an entertainment venue docked in Muskegon, Michigan. Meeting Brock Johnson, the Director of Operations, had been a highlight! At 21 years old, Brock holds over a decade of service to this ship. Join us as we step back in time and explore this beauty.

Grand Trunk Line Roadway – Grand River Avenue – US 16

As the gravel crunched under our shoes, we talked on camera for our YouTube video about this ‘Grand Trunk Line Roadway,’ known as ‘Grand River Avenue’ and ‘US 16.’ This original Anishinaabe route, known as a ‘trunk line roadway,’ became a paved pathway across our state. It eased travel between Michigan’s largest cities: Detroit, Lansing, Grand Rapids and Muskegon. The ‘trunk’ is the main road with ‘branch’ roads stretching out into the land.

We’d started our journey in Detroit, traveled across Michigan to Muskegon. “Once people reached Muskegon, they could board the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper, a car ferry, and continue their journey to Milwaukee.” Chuck stated.

“I heard the Milwaukee Clipper is decorated in an art deco design.” I commented to Chuck as we approached the dock. “I can’t wait to see this ship.” Chuck nodded. “Brock said it would be a self-guided tour today.” Chuck had emailed Brock Johnson, the Director of Operations, before our visit. We were hoping we’d run into Brock. Well, we sure did and were impressed with his commitment to this century-old vessel!

S.S. Milwaukee Clipper History

At 121 years old, the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper carries a lot of stories. I will briefly trace over her heritage, so we can get inside the ship. Built with a wooden hull in 1904, Juniata, had carried passengers and freight for the “Anchor Line” between Buffalo, NY and Duluth, MN.

By 1937 the wooden framework began to show wear. For years Congress had been working to increase regulations, especially for wooden ships. By 1940 ‘The Motor Boat Act’ had become law. The Juniata no longer met the safety criteria and had to be retired.  

Owners of Sand Products Corporation of Muskegon, Max and Mark McKee, saw potential in Juniata. They purchased her and had her relocated to Manitowoc, Wisconsin, where magic happened. The vessel’s wooden frame was completely replaced with steel. This had been the first ship in the world to have it’s superstructure replaced by steel! Her interior had been refinished in the latest art deco style.

On June 2, 1941 the vessel was re-christened as the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper. Her first voyage was back to Muskegon the following day. For decades she had carried thousands of people and their cars between Muskegon, Milwaukee and even Chicago during World War II.

In 1970 she retired from service and was brought to Chicago. For twenty-seven years the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper was a floating restaurant, nightclub and museum at Chicago’s Navy Pier. Later, for a brief time, she had been moved to Hammond, Indiana.

Then in April of 1997 S.S. Milwaukee Clipper Preservation Association, a non-profit 501(c)3, was formed. That same year the ship had been relocated back to Muskegon, where she has continued to serve the community as a museum and a venue for events.

Chuck and I walked up the plank and through a wide, open door, where they used to load cars into the belly of the ship. We were greeted by Sharon, who cheerfully sold us our ‘self-guided’ tickets. I was excited to climb through this vessel which has been witness to over a hundred years of history.

Entrance

After climbing a flight of stairs we entered the main reception area. Signage proclaimed, “Welcome Aboard The Milwaukee Clipper, Your Host Afloat.” Vintage luggage was stacked on and behind the counter. The reception desk displayed a monitor explaining the functions of the vessel and “check-in” protocol. Apparently, blankets could be rented at the baggage check-in counter during journeys across Lake Michigan.

“I love the port holes!” a girl’s voice echoed through the metal ship. “I want to find all of them!” A young boy lisped, “Look at this drinking fountain stuck inside the wall!” (top left photo) A few other families and couples investigated and made echoing observations.

I discovered that I liked finding port holes, too!

The Galley – Eating

Mid-century modern decor lined the longest dining area I’ve ever seen! What an amazing space for a party! If these port holes could talk, right?

The extended dining room can seat 158 people and is available to rent for gatherings.

Entertainment at Every Turn

Are you craving an ice cream sundae or a malted milk shake? Well, Saturdays and Sundays ‘The Soda Bowl’ is open for sweet treats. (pictured below top left) A jukebox provides a variety of tunes. As part of the museum, you can experience the ship’s movie theater and a children’s playroom.

Events are scheduled from May through October on the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper! Follow along on Facebook or check out the website! (See “Related Links” at the end of the article)

Event Space

A chrome and black circular bar awaited guests. Adjacent to the bar gleamed a polished dance floor. This event space can be rented, too.

Recently, on May 31st, Neil Fortenbacher and Rikki Walting were married here. They are one of many couples who’ve celebrated their wedding ceremony aboard the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper. In fact, Neil had proposed to Rikki the previous year, right on this ship.

Brock Johnson, Director of Operations, had been interviewed by an MLive reporter and said, “Over these last few years, we’ve been busy with restoration projects from painting to plumbing to get the Queen of the Great lakes back into shape,” Johnson continued. “We opened for rentals last year and have been very pleased with the amount of reservations.”

The Bridge

A log book and maps were sitting out along with safety checklists. Standing at the wheel, I felt like a sea captain gazing over the horizon.

Booths and Beds – All In One!

The booths doubled as beds and another bed could fold down over the bottom bunk. I suppose it’s similar to a Pullman’s train car or a camper’s design for overnight trips. With closed curtains these beds become cozy forts. I would have loved to have traveled like this.

Cabins

This seemingly endless hallway was flanked by doors which opened to cabins for those with means or higher ranking crew members.

Several of these doors were open revealing refurbished rooms. Brock had said that one of their goals was to open these rooms for overnight stays. They’d call it a “boatel.”

Many rooms are awaiting remodeling. A person or group can donate the cost for updating a room and have a plaque placed on the door signifying their generosity.

Brock Johnson stated to MLive reporter, Ehren Wynder, “There have been a lot of changes, and we would like to invite the public to come on down and see what’s new.”

Brock Johnson

We had “Brock sightings” during our tour. When we’d arrived Brock been on the top deck working with a hose. Later he strode by us with purpose outside the ship and then in the confined hallway. “That was Brock.” Chuck would lift his chin. Then, as were investigating the museum, Brock entered.

We introduced ourselves. He bubbled with energy about his ship as he continued his tasks. Brock lifted his head momentarily from the papers he’d been organizing. “I’ve been working here for 12 years.”

The Milwaukee Clipper had captivated Brock Johnson ever since his very first tour in 2015. His Grandmother had brought him and again the following year. On his second visit, Brock had proclaimed his interest in working on the ship. “They told me to come back when I was older. I went back the next day (technically older) and they gave me a job.”

Brock was twelve and worked in the Soda Bowl. Soon, he was giving tours. In 2023 Brock earned the title, Director of Operations. Now he leads a group of dedicated volunteers.

Making the ship into a “Boatel” with a restaurant are the main goals at this time. Brock is hoping to have the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper relocated to a space with easier access. Having the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper “downtown is a must in order to make it successful.”

Brock continued folding t-shirts and arranging items as we chatted. Brock’s enthusiasm and energy filled the space, sparking a light for the future of this vessel.

S.S. Milwaukee Clipper Upcoming Events:

There’s always something happening at the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper!

June 21 Fun Times and Tan Lines Beach Party 6:00 pm
July 4 Independence Day Party 5:00 pm
July 12 Ruth and Max Bloomquist Concert
July 19 Rock and Roll Dance Night 6:00 pm
Aug 2 Disco/Pop Dance Night 6:00 pm
Aug 31 Labor Day Party 6:00 pm
Sept 13 County Clipper Dance Night
Oct Saturdays and Sundays – Haunted Ship Tours
Oct 31 Halloween Party 7:00 pm

Poppins Ponders

This ship has been witness to five generations of changes in our culture and technology. Peering through portholes and climbing the stairways, where so many have walked before, was centering for me. The Lake Michigan voyages had once been a life-line for thousands of travelers. Then the gatherings that have taken place have made memories and still do today!

As a ‘party professional,’ I am dreaming up a reason to rent The S.S. Milwaukee Clipper! My Mom’s side holds a week-long Bunek Family Reunion every four years. Maybe we’ll have a new location! Wouldn’t it be a blast to live aboard this ship for seven days, especially with the Bunek clan?

My favorite part of our trip was meeting Brock Johnson. His whole-hearted loyalty to the S.S. Milwaukee Clipper has touched my heart, and Chuck’s, too. We have made a donation! We encourage you to experience “The Queen of the Great Lakes,” The S.S. Milwaukee Clipper!

The S.S. Milwaukee Clipper Donations

Donate a “Life Ring Sponsorship” on their website here OR mail a check in any amount to
S.S. Milwaukee Clipper Preservation, Inc. P.O. Box 1370 Muskegon, MI 49443-1312

Related Links:

The Milwaukee Clipper website
The Milwaukee Clipper Facebook page

The Restless Viking YouTube video about US 16 / Grand River Avenue, “The Ghost Highway.”

The Restless Viking overnight excursion on the SS City of Milwaukee located in Manistee. This ship had been built in the 1930’s and serves as a “boatel.” Here’s the article.

Resources:

Alan Boulee, a Restless Viking fan, contacted us with this story idea. Thanks, Alan!
Brock Johnson
“Lost Milwaukee The History of the Milwaukee Clipper” article By Carl Swanson 2019
MLive article ” ” by Ehren Wynder, May 30,2025
MLive article “The Oldest Passenger Ship on the Great Lakes” By Cory Morse
Visit Muskegon article